It’s easy to fancy yourself a bold winter explorer as you cross-country ski the backcountry trails of Maine’s 100-Mile Wilderness. The solitude on the 8.3-mile trek to Gorman Chairback Lodge and Cabins in Greenville allows your attention to focus on the chattering of birds in the trees, the rhythmic swish of your skis, the peculiar snake-like tracks in the snow (which you’ll later learn were probably left by a vole).

The remoteness is a definite thrill. And you could very nearly let yourself believe you were all alone out here with just the conifers for company, except the trails are exceptionally groomed and well-marked, your overnight bags are being brought in by snowmobile, and the woodstove in your cabin will be blazing and warm upon your arrival.

Winter at an AMC Maine Wilderness Cabin is not exactly roughing it.

Juliette Sutherland cross-country skis her way to Gorman Chairback Lodge. Shannon Bryan photo
Two of the cabins at Gorman Chairback Lodge and Cabins. Shannon Bryan photo
A warm fire, comfy chairs, and good company at the Gorman Chairback main lodge. Shannon Bryan photo

It is a fantastic and memorable getaway (or ski-away, if you prefer) into the Maine woods, where off-the-grid intersects with hot showers and a seasonal beer selection. Not to mention the family-style meals, composting toilets, and wood-fired sauna.

Whether you’re an avid outdoorsperson looking for a relaxing wintertime respite or you’re just dipping your boots into cold-weather adventure, AMC’s Maine Wilderness Cabins make for a welcoming winter oasis.

The AMC lodges include Gorman Chairback Lodge, Little Lyford Lodge, and Medawisla Lodge, as well as West Branch Pond Camps, a family-owned sporting camp that partners with the AMC. Many winter visitors ski lodge to lodge, staying a night or two at each location before packing up and heading on like happy Nordic-skiing vagabonds. Little Lyford and Gorman Chairback are particularly popular for this; both lodges are ski-in only and close enough to each other to create a cool lodge-to-lodge experience, even if you only have a few days. Medawisla Lodge and West Branch Pond Camps are farther afield (should you have a hankering for additional mileage) and both are also accessible by car (should you want to drive right in).

Walking to our cabin. Shannon Bryan photo
The fire was already going, the cabin warm as can be when we arrived. Shannon Bryan photo

The 8.3-mile ski into Gorman Chairback Lodge and Cabins is a big part of what makes the trip so worthwhile. The adventure begins in the AMC winter parking lot on KI Road, 11 miles from the center of Greenville.

Here you’ll tag your bag and place it into a gear shed near the trailhead. The sheds are labeled by lodge, and staff will swing by and ferry your bag to the lodge for you, which means you can ski with a lighter day pack. How handy! There’s helpful information at the sheds, too, like when each trail was last groomed and whether specific trails are open or closed. If you’re headed to Gorman Chairback, you can note whether the trail across the pond is open.

The gear sheds are well-marked. This is where you’ll place your bags to be transported to the lodge for you. Trail conditions are also listed on the side of the shed. Shannon Bryan photo
Tag yer bags! Shannon Bryan photo

Double check you’ve got a trail map (there are some at the gear sheds if needed), extra layers, a headlamp (just in case!), water, and plenty of snacks for the journey ahead, and you’re off.

The trails are groomed on the regular here and there are signs galore to guide you, making navigating a breeze. (Even still, check that map just to be sure.) You’ll be met by rolling hills with inclines that increase your heart rate and downhills that also increase your heart rate – for a completely different reason.

Stunning scenery on the way to Gorman Chairback. Shannon Bryan photo
Pretty river crossing. Shannon Bryan photo

You’ll glide by spacious stands of birch trees and then, a few minutes later, marvel at how the bows of firs crowd the trail. You might spot a pileated woodpecker or the tracks of a fox. And it’s possible you’ll meet fellow skiers on the trail, those headed back from the lodge or winter camping in the area. But you’ll also have loads of time to breathe and be quiet and wonder about what woodsy inhabitant peeled the bark off that tree. It feels wonderful.

There are a few trail options to choose from to get to Gorman Chairback – the Long Pond Trail, which goes south around Long Pond, is 8.3 miles. The Gorman Lodge Trail, which runs north of Long Pond, is 7.3 miles and considered more beginner friendly. And if the ice is solid and the trail is marked, you can ski right across the pond. It’s flat!

We opted to not take the Long Pond route to the lodge, as the ice was deemed unsafe farther out and we didn’t want to find ourselves in a bad situation. But we did enjoy the safely frozen pond edges for a bit. Shannon Bryan photo

Depending on how quickly you ski and how often you stop to gawk, snack, and take photos, the trek will take around three to four hours. And soon you’ll ski up to Gorman Chairback Lodge, step out of your skis, and start ooohing over your new abode.

Eight cabins keep lookout at the edge of Long Pond. Equipped with a woodstove, gas lamps, and a jug for water, these cabins sleep one to five people. The cabins were part of the recreational camp that existed here, which was first built in 1867. One cabin, in the shape of an octagon, is the oldest on the property.

Arrival at Gorman Chairback Lodge! We stepped out of our skis and into the main lodge to check in. Shannon Bryan photo
The sitting are at the main lodge. Shannon Bryan photo
Gorman Chairback main lodge on the right, two of the guest cabins on the left. Shannon Bryan photo
Our sweet cabin. Shannon Bryan photo
Some pre-dinner snacking in our cabin. Shannon Bryan photo

The view from the front bedroom down to Long Pond. Shannon Bryan photo

The Appalachian Mountain Club took over the property in recent years and has since built four deluxe cabins, including one that’s ADA accessible. These cabins have electricity and a full private bath with a composting toilet and running water. They’re downright fancy and delightful. There’s also a bunkhouse that accommodates 10 guests.

Wherever you’re resting your head for the night, you’ll be warmly welcomed by the lodge manager when you arrive, and you’ll be warmly welcomed by your cabin, too – staff will have already lit the woodstove for you.

Meals are served family-style at the main lodge, where you can scoop something hot and homemade and delicious onto your plate while you socialize with your fellow guests and swap adventure stories. Bonus: there’s beer and wine for sale.

A hot meal hits the spot – as does the beer – at Gorman Chairback Lodge. Shannon Bryan photo
Dinner is served family style and is a great chance to meet and chat with staff and other guests. Shannon Bryan photo

How you spend your time at Gorman Chairback is totally up to you. Recline back with a book at the main lodge, play cribbage with a friend, relax in the wood-fired sauna. You can trek out onto the frozen pond to look up at the moon or explore the network of trails and work on your animal track identification.

Juliette embracing the frozen Long Pond. Shannon Bryan photo

Whatever you do, the Maine woods is sure to work its rejuvenating magic. The Long Pond views, snow-covered trails, and AMC hospitality sure don’t hurt.

AMC Wildnerness Lodges

For more information on the Gorman Chairback Lodge and Cabin or to make a reservation:

For more information on all the Maine Wilderness Lodges:

AMC Maine Wilderness Lodges trail map [PDF]:

This post was originally published Feb 2020